It was a blitz but I definitely got what I needed from the capital of Cambodia. The city itself is pretty dirty. Since there are lots of cars and motos, there is lots of smog but also since the roads are dirty themselves there is lots of dust constantly being kicked up causing a haze when mixing with the smog. I arrived in the evening and went to a guesthouse recommended by some friends I made in Siem Reap. Taylor and I wound up kicking it with a large group of volunteers working in various spots throughout Cambodia and I went to the guesthouse where most of them were living.
When I woke the following morning, I had a rash on my arm. This is the second time I have had a rash on my arm and it appears to be an allergic reaction to something. Last time I had a rash was in Bangkok and Colby did too. Not sure what the cause is but I would rather have an itchy rash on my arm than stomach pains and diarrhea.
Anyway, I bounced early by hitching a ride on a moto to the Killing Fields. Since the air was so toxic, I made the driver pull over at one point and bought us both medical masks to cover our faces and prevent the dirt and grime from getting in my mouth and nose. I was expecting a football size field with human remains sticking out of the earth as Colby had said there was little infrastructure and no information. I have to categorically disagree. Paid 2$ at the gate and walked straight to the Pagoda which houses many many skulls and bones. Very somber feeling. Then a path leads you around the area with various signs saying what went down and where. I am also reading a book called, ‘First They Killed My Father’ and have to say I was pretty ignorant on the whole Khmer Rouge/Pol Pot thing.
A very brief rundown on what went down goes like this. During the Vietnam War we bombed the fuck out of Cambodia and hurt a lot of innocent people. Then we put a puppet government in place that could not control the people and since they were all upset anyway, the Khmer Rouge was able to garner power in the mountains and walk straight into Phnom Pehn. This was their crazy idea…to turn Cambodia back into a complete agrarian society. Therefore, they killed all intellectuals, people of power, doctors, even people that wore glasses as it was a sign of education/wealth. The mountain people were his ideal vision of the future of Cambodia so they were the first to be used in his army and manipulated.
The atrocities conducted at the Killing Fields were horrific. There is a tree that was used to kill babies and children by grabbing them by the feet and bashing their heads against the trunk. The reason for killing the young was so that they wouldn’t grow up and try to avenge their parent’s death. Since ammunition was expensive, many died by being beaten/stabbed/etc. Lots of that went down at S-21 which was my next stop.
I felt sick after leaving the Killing Fields and the moto driver asked if I wanted to go shoot some guns. The manager at my guesthouse mentioned that was something to do here so I acquiesced. We drove to a military area and I was given a ‘menu’…hmmm…what to choose from. I decided on a gun that I have never shot and probably won’t be able to in the states…an Uzzi. Something about the smell of gunpowder! 40 rounds later we were on our way to S-21.
S-21 was an old school converted into a prison/interrogation center/reeducation center. The scenes depicted here were equally brutal. Most people at the killing fields were brought here first to ‘confess’ and give information. Again, they had done a good job of showing some artifacts and giving information about what went down. I was recommended a restaurant across the street as an ‘oasis away from it all’ so I went there for lunch. It was and I needed it. Bodhi Tree Restaurant supports local charities and hires kids that need jobs.
After that I decided to cruise to the US Embassy to get more pages in my passport. Pretty cool that I have filled up every page (and a few amendment pages) in my travels over the years. I figured it would be fairly easy…then I remembered that it was a government run operation. Waited in line outside for 30 minutes then waited inside for a few hours. The room was full so I picked an empty chair and plopped down to eavesdrop on the conversation next to me. It was an older guy talking to a well dressed couple (one white male and one Cambodian female). In the introduction the well-dressed young guy says he is from San Luis Obispo….WHAT>?! I have to jump in so I ask if that is where he is really from…nope..actually he is from Atascadero..>WHAT!!! Robert graduated 3 years after me. He lives at the Bordeaux Apartments and has never left Atascadero aside from the 3 small trips out to Cambodia to try and get his wife permission to enter. He works at a convalescent home in Atascadero and cared for this girl’s grandmother who insisted that they connect. After being pen-pals for a bit, he flew out to meet her for a few weeks and proposed. That was 3 years ago. He has only seen her 3 times during the 3 years and never for more than 2 weeks. I was asking if he has travelled around when he comes to visit and he said that it is too hot, the food is no good and he misses his cat too much…oh boy, this girl is in for a ride when she gets to Atown. It was so crazy to see this kid, who is a total meat and potatoes kind of guy, who has never left Atown and who is incredibly innocent trying to get this woman back to the US with him..and he is committed. He loves her and I believe him. This meeting was the last one and if all goes well she will be on a plane for California in 30 days. I offered to buy them some beer that evening if it went well and we parted ways. The older guy was a hoot too. He lived in many countries on many continents and has been married 3 times (although he lied about that to the Embassy). He is trying to marry a woman from a very traditional family. He said they have never been alone together. He was a cool guy and had some great stories and great advice. Who knew waiting at the Embassy for hours could be so interesting.
That evening the rain kicked up and they cancelled their celebration (hopefully they were having their own if you know what I’m sayin!). I got a massage and called it a night early as the bus was arriving at 7 AM to take me to Kampot. Phnom Pehn was great. I probably could have spent 1 more day there but don’t think anyone needs more than a few. Since I was ‘templed out’ from Siem Reap, there wasn’t much to see aside from what I did in 1 day.
Kampot, Kep, Rabbit Island, Sihanoukville and Batambang before I leave Cambodia….HOLD ON!!
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